401599 Roush Mustang Big Brake Kit (2005-2014)

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Mustang Big Brake Kit

Note: Use of these components will require 18” Wheels minimum. It is the responsibility of the customer to verify that their wheels will fit.

Note: The factory supplied Temporary Spare Tire will no longer fit the front of the vehicle with this kit. If you have a flat front tire, we recommend placing the mini spare on the back and transferring an 18 inch wheel to the front.

WARNING: Use of any other than approved DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid will cause permanent damage to brake components and will render the brakes inoperative. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

WARNING: Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If swallowed, drink water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water.

CAUTION: If equipped with adhesive backed brake pads, do not allow the brake fluid to come in contact with the adhesive backing on the brake pads. If brake fluid is spilled onto the brake pads new pads must be installed.


1) Locate a level, stable and clean surface, suitable for supporting the vehicle on jack-stands.

2) Apply parking brake and break loose front lug nuts.

3) Refer to the Owner’s Manual to identify the correct location of the jack for raising the vehicle. Jack up the vehicle, and secure it on a pair of jack stands, again referring to the Owner’s Manual for jack location points.

Warning: Never leave any vehicle supported by only a jack. Always use jack-stands. Serious injury and/or death may result.

4) After securing the vehicle at a convenient height, remove the front wheels.

Note: To ensure safety, the parking brake must be applied before removing the front wheels.

Disconnect Stock Brake Line

Warning: Brake fluid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake fluid from any painted surface. Also, be sure the cap is securely installed on the master cylinder. If the cap is loose or removed, it is likely that more fluid will drip during brake installation.

1) Remove the retaining clips that hold the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring to the brake hose from the ABS wire. Refer to Figure 1.

2) Place drip tray or several rags directly below the inboard brake line connections. If the area around the brake line connection to the chassis is dirty, clean it using brake cleaner or an appropriate cleaning agent. Loosen the hard line fitting from the stock brake line, using a 13mm flare wrench. Cap the end of the line using caps provided in the hardware kit. Refer to Figure 2.

Warning: Do not let the brake fluid drain until the master cylinder is emptied. If the Master cylinder does empty, the brake system will have to be bleed by a certified brake technician.

3) Remove the Hose Bracket from the body using a 10mm wrench or socket. Retain the bolt for later use. Refer to Figure 3.

Note: The bracket will remain on the stock brake line, and will not be reused.

4) The middle section of the Mustang front wheel stock brake line is held in place by a line locator attached to a bracket on the strut. Remove the line locator bolt using a 10mm wrench or socket. Refer to Figure 4. Retain the bolt for later use.

Note: The line locator will remain on the stock brake line, and will not be reused.

Remove Stock Caliper & Rotor

1) Remove the two stock caliper bolts, using a 15mm wrench or socket. Discard these bolts. Refer to Figure 5.

2) Remove the caliper with the stock brake line attached. Refer to Figure 6. There may be some leakage from the open end of the brake line.

3) Remove the stock rotor. Refer to Figure 7.

Note: It may be necessary to strike the outer edge of the rotor with a non-marring mallet, if corrosion prevents the rotor from simply being pulled off. If so, loosely thread a wheel nut on one of the studs first, to prevent the rotor from falling when it comes free.

4) Remove the three retaining bolts holding the dust shield in place, using a 10mm wrench or socket. Set aside bolts for later use. Refer to Figure 8.


1) Place the ROUSH Dust Shield into place over the hub with the cut-out portion to the rear side of the hub and the pockets for the tie rod end facing out. Refer to Figure 9. Secure with the bolts removed from the factory dust shield. Torque the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

2) Install a caliper mounting bracket to each spindle using the new caliper bolts. Refer to Figure 10. Torque the bolts to 115 Nm (85 lb-ft).

Install Rotor and Caliper

1) Slide the Rotor over the wheel studs and onto the hub. Refer to Figure 11.

Note: The rotors are specific for each side of the vehicle. The rotors are labeled ‘L’ and ‘R’ with orange decals. Installing the rotors on the wrong side of the vehicle will greatly reduce the cooling capacity of the system.

Hint: Applying a small amount of Anti-seize compound to the outer ring of the center of the hub may aid in removal of the rotor in the future.

2) Thread 3 lug nuts onto the wheel studs and snug. Check the rotor and backing plate for interference. Adjust for clearance by bending the backing plate away from the rotor if/where they touch.

3) Remove the lug nuts from the wheel studs.

4) Obtain the left side caliper. The calipers have small orange stickers with ‘R’ and ‘L’ for their perspective sides. Remove the Styrofoam shipping blocks from inside the calipers and slide the caliper over the rotor and the Caliper Bracket studs. Refer to Figure 12.

Note: When installed on the correct sides, the bleeder screws will be on the top side of the caliper and the crossover pipe will be on the bottom.

5) Loosen the top and bottom Bridge Bolts and install the 12mm washers and Jet Nuts onto the caliper bracket studs. Torque the Jet Nuts to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Retighten the loosened Bridge Bolts to 12 Nm (106 lb-in). Refer to Figure 13.

Install Brake Hose

1) Loosely attach the Brake Hose to the caliper with the Banjo Bolt and Copper Crush Washers on each sides of the hose end as shown in Figure 14.

2) Attach the hose mid mount to the strut using the original strut bolt. Position the hose mount perpendicular to the strut and torque the bolt to 20 Nm (177 lb-in). Refer to Figure 15.

3) Fasten the Brake Hose Bracket to the body using the bolt from the OEM brake hose bracket. Refer to Figure 16. Torque the bolt to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

4) Place the Adel Clamp over the Braided Brake Hose so that the offset is to the rear the car and the retainer holes are inboard when the hose is held vertical.

Hint: It may be helpful to place the hose and the clamp against the bracket and mark the clamp in relation to the hose. Then, use pliers to squeeze the clamp around the hose and start the Brake Line Bracket Bolt through the clamp.

5) Bolt the hose to the hose bracket with a Brake Line Bracket Bolt. Refer to Figure 18. Tighten using a 3mm driver to 2.5 Nm (22 lb-in).

Important! – The brake hose must not be twisted into place when it is installed on the bracket. If the hose is twisted, it WILL NOT be able adequately move with the suspension and will possibly fail.

6) Remove the rubber cap from the brake line and connect the brake line to the brake hose. Use wrenches to hold both the brake line and the brake hose ends as you tighten them. Refer to Figure 19. Torque to 17 Nm (150 lb-in).

7) Position the caliper end of the brake hose so that it is approximately 45 degrees from vertical, tilted toward the center of the rotor. Refer to Figure 20. Torque the banjo bolt fitting to 19 Nm (168 lb-in).

Secure the ABS Wiring

1) Run one High Temp Cable Tie through one Rubber Tube Segment. Loop the cable tie around the protective rubber sleeve portion of the ABS wire and back through the tube segment. Refer to Figure 21.

2) Engage the wire tie ends around the Braided Brake Hose and pull tight. Cut off the excess wire tie. Repeat for the second ABS protective rubber sleeve. Refer to Figure 22.

Bleed Brakes

Warning: Do not let the brake fluid drain until the Master Cylinder is emptied. If the Master Cylinder does empty, the brake system will have to be bleed by a certified brake technician. Do not turn the ignition on until brake bleeding is fully complete.

1) Complete the installation of both sides before bleeding the system.

2) Refer to the factory service manual for basic brake bleeding instructions.

3) Bleed the brakes, using an 11mm wrench to loosen the bleed screws, in the following sequence:

1. Right outboard bleed screw

2. Right inboard breed screw

3. Left outboard bleed screw

4. Left inboard bleed screw

4) Bleed brakes until there is positively no air left in the system. Gently tapping on the calipers with a soft, non-marring hammer can help to unseat trapped air.

5) Torque bleed screws to 14 Nm (124 lb-in).

Test Brakes

1) Verify normal pedal travel. Pedal may take several pumps to reach its normal position. If travel is excessive, the problem will usually be trapped air or leaks.

2) With firm pressure applied to the brake pedal, check all lines, hoses, and connections for leaks.

3) Check for adequate caliper clearance to wheels. Be sure to check that wheel balance weights will not interfere either. Re-install wheels and lower vehicle.

4) Carefully test drive vehicle in a safe area at low speeds to insure all components are working correct. If the vehicle operates in any way that is suspect, stop the vehicle immediately and inspect/repair.

Important! -- If anything seems unusual when operating the vehicle, stop the vehicle immediately and repair as necessary.

Bed-in Brakes


The majority of brake system problems are due to improper installation and/or bed-in of the rotors and pads. By reading and understanding the following, you will avoid the most common causes of poor brake performance and vibration. Failure to read, understand and follow these procedures will cause permanent damage to your new rotors.

Bed-in or rotors and pads is critical to the optimum performance of your new brakes. When bedding-in new parts, you are not only heat-cycling the pads, you a depositing a layer of material onto the rotor face. If not bedded-in properly, an uneven layer of pad material will be deposited onto the rotor, causing vibration. Virtually every instance of a “warped” rotor is attributed to uneven pad deposition.

Note: Bedding-in pads should not be done in poor weather conditions, nor on wet roads.

Note: ROUSH brake rotors are CAD plated. Plated rotors must be driven with gentle braking until the CAD plating is warn off BEFORE starting the bed-in procedure. Do not use brakes aggressively until the plating is worn off, typically after several miles of driving.

Typically, a heavy braking street driver will experience approximately 1 to 1.1G’s of deceleration. At this rate, the ABS will be activated on such equipped vehicles. A moderate braking effort is needed to properly bed-in rotors and pads. If ABS intervention or lock-up were represented as 100% brake effort, a stopping force of 70-80%, just short of ABS intervention or lock-up is a general estimate of the pedal effort you are trying to achieve.

After completing the installation and driving the vehicle gently to remove the CAD plating from the rotors, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 MPH, then begin braking. It is not necessary to watch the speedometer. Keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of the stop. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP WHILE LEAVING YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL, AS YOU MAY IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

After the final stop of the cycle, drive as much as possible to without using the brakes, to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to completely cool to ambient temperature before using them again. There are several indicators to look for while bedding-in the system. On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may also be evident after several stops. Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade.” This is a slight fading of the brakes and will stabilize, but not completely go away, until the brakes have cooled. After the bed in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint on the rotors and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates that the rotor has reached the proper bed-in temperature, and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is normal!


After the first bed-in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity. A second or third bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “come in.” A ”cycle” is a series of stops followed by a cool down.

ROUSH Performance Products does not endorse exceeding the posted speed limit.

All installation instructions, images, & descriptions contained within are representative of the manufacturer instructions included with your part upon purchase & are the sole property thereof.
Pure Speed Motorsports practices due diligence in reviewing these instructions for accuracy and recommends consulting a certified professional when installing any aftermarket part or accessory.