006-1STA Steeda Mustang Adjustable Rear Swaybar (1979-2003 with T/A Cover)
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Shop This Part Now: Steeda Mustang Adjustable Rear Swaybar (1979-2003 with T/A Cover)
Adjustable Rear Swaybar
1) Raise the vehicle and place it on jack-stands. Support the weight of the car by placing jack- stands under the rear axle, or use a drive-on lift, so that the rear suspension is at normal ride height. This will make everything line up properly. Don't drill holes or tighten the clamps until you have checked the fit at normal ride height.
2) Place the D-shaped pivot bushings around the bar. Put one on each side on the straight section of the bar. Position the bar under the rear axle with the arms forward and pointing down.
3) Pass the Axle U-bolts around the axle (make sure they are under the brake line so it wont get crushed) and let the legs hang down about midway between the differential and the lower control arm bracket.
4) From below, slide the backing plates over the U-bolts with the U-bolt legs through the two slotted holes. Rotate the pivot bushings so the flat side is facing up, and place the Pivot Bushing Brackets around the bushings, under the bar. Slide the Pivot Bushing Brackets up over the ends of the U-bolts, followed by the Flat Washers and Nuts. Engage the nuts loosely on the end of the threads.
5) From the side, slide in the locking device, legs up, between the axle and the Backing Plate. See Figures 2 & 4. Rotate the U-bolts so they are pointing to the rear at a 10 to 15 degree angle, as shown in Figures 3 & 4. Snug up the nuts on the Ubolts but don't tighten yet.
6) Assemble end-links in the sequence shown in Figure 4. With the head of the bolt at the top, it passes first through the Endlink Washer, then the Endlink Bushing, Frame Bracket, Endlink Bushing Without Nipple, Endlink Washer, Spring, Endlink Washer, Bushing, Swaybar, Bushing, Endlink Washer, and Nut.
7) With end-links and brackets attached to the bar, raise the bar arms until the Endlink/Frame Bracket is against the frames. The bracket should line up to the frame in a position similar to Figures 3 & 4. Mark frame bottom through the bracket bolt holes and center punch to drill holes.
8) Drill holes with 3/8" drill bit.
9) Place a nut on one leg of the Frame Ubolt. Pass the other end into the frame through the hole you drilled and feed it through so it comes out the other hole. Attach the Endlink/Frame Bracket to the frame using the Nuts and Washers provided.
10) Tighten the nuts on the Frame U-bolts to 15 lb/ft. Double check the fit and alignment of the swaybar. Use your judgement and tighten the Axle U-bolt Nuts until they are tight and the Backing Plate just starts to bend slightly. Do not over-tighten. Final torque should be between 12 and 25 lb/ft.
11) Adjust the Endlink Nuts so there is light pressure on the Springs (usually about three threads showing beyond the nut).
12) Test drive the car to accustom yourself to its new handling. The new swaybar may change the balance and handling characteristics of the car. After the test drive re-examine all the bolts and end links and adjust as necessary.
- Start with two to three threads on the tip of the endlink bolt showing past the nut.
- Tightening the endlinks (compressing the endlink Springs) reduces understeer, causing the car to respond more quickly to steering inputs. Over-tightening the endlinks may cause oversteer. Oversteer is when the back tires lose traction before the front tires. When this happens the car has a tendency to spin.
- Tighten the endlinks more to reduce understeer.
- Loosen the endlinks to reduce oversteer.
- Back the nuts off all-the-way (so there is no tension on the Springs) when racing in the rain or driving in the snow.